The variety
of mustards available today is matched only by the number of theories about
the origin of this spicy paste. Mustard seeds can be traced back as far as
3000 BC. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Indians and Romans are all said to
have grown mustard seeds and cooked the tender leaves of the mustard plant.
(The Egyptians originally chewed the seeds whole while eating meat in order
to improve the flavour.)
Mustard was eventually brought to Europe, where its popularity flourished.
By the thirteenth century, 'Mustarder' was a common occupation. How mustard
found its name is a hotly debated question. In classical times, mustard was
made by mixing the pounded seed with mustum (unfermented wine). The suffix
'-ard' is supposedly derived from the Teutonic '-hart', meaning hard, strong
or intense, - all characteristics of a good mustard. Another explanation is
that the word 'mustard' comes from the Latin mustum ardens, meaning 'burning
must', since mustard seeds were mixed with grape must in France long ago.
A more romantic story is told by the people of Dijon, France . Long associated
with fine mustard, the Dijonais claim the word was established in the late
part of the fourteenth century by Philip the bold, Duke of Burgundy. Local
legend has it that the Duke had difficulty digesting meat during the lengthy
and elaborate banquets he was so famous for giving. He asked his chef to devise
a sauce that would disguise the meats often rancid smell and taste. Mout ma
tarde, meaning 'a long time I delay my meal' was the term given to this spicy
yellow condiment which allowed the Duke and his guests to savour their food.
Later, this phrase was shortened to 'moutarde', the French word for mustard.
This story, apocryphal or not, gives some clue as to why mustard has remained
so popular over the centuries. In the past mustard was enjoyed simply because
everyday foods weren't flavourful enough or had a downright bad taste. Early
mustard users were not gourmets.
Today, despite its association with the 'gourmet' and 'speciality' food world,
mustard is loved for similar reasons. Of all condiments, it is undoubtedly
the most basic, capable of complementing and enhancing just about every type
of savoury food. Modern Mustards. Our growing enthusiasm for mustard has produced
an onslaught of new products and, not surprisingly, the results are varied.
For each terrific new mustard tasted, there have been least five 'duds'. These
mustards can be described as 'trendies' - mustards that are brimming with
interesting ingredients but having absolutely no memorable qualities. Usually
these trendies are packaged so beautifully that you'd be willing to bet money
that they'll taste good.
But looks can be deceptive. One spoonful and it's all over.
When tasting a mustard, the first thing to look for is pure mustard flavour
- not salt, flour, oil or a strong herb taste, but mustard. After all that
is what you are supposed to be buying. Far too many of the products sampled
were filled with ingredients that overwhelmed, or conflicted with, the natural
flavour of the mustard seeds. What follows is an attempt to make sense of
the ever-growing selection of mustards, divided into nine major types with
some hints of what they'll go best with.
American-Style Mustard.
The word 'style' in this category is significant. Although there is now a
large and impressive selection of American mustards to choose from, what is
truly defined as American-style is not terribly impressive. But, like iceberg
lettuce, American-style mustard had its place. Everyone in the United States
knows about this type of mustard. Its mild (some would say bland) taste and
bright yellow colour is familiar, but there are two basic categories. The
smooth, bright yellow 'ball park' mustard made from ground white seeds, vinegar,
sugar, and spices ( most notably turmeric, a deep yellow spice used in curries);
and the coarser, somewhat spicier brown 'deli-style' mustard made from a mixture
of ground white and black seeds, vinegar and spices. American mustards seem
to have been made to be eaten with hot dogs. They are also a good accompaniment
to delicatessen sandwiches, sausages and baked beans.
Dijon and Dijon-Style Mustard.
Some would say that nothing rivals a good Dijon mustard. It should be pungent
and spicy with a smooth, creamy texture. The Dijonais have an expression to
describe the characteristics of a truly good mustard: mont au nez, meaning
'coming up to the nose'. It is also said in Dijon that mustard should stimulate
the appetite and aid digestion, but never burn the throat or alter the taste
of sauces or dishes.
The Dijonais take mustard making as seriously as some of their fellow Burgundians
take wine-making, and there are strict laws in France, some dating back to
the 1880s, that govern what can, and cannot, go into Dijon mustard. According
to French law, a Dijon mustard must be made exclusively from black seeds (brassica
nigra), salts and spices mixed with either white wine,(verjuice, the juice
of unripened grapes) or vinegar. By law no sugars, flours, oils, perfumes,
colouring or additives may be added. Any mustard that deviates from this traditional
recipe must be called Dijon-style.
Dijon mustard is made by crushing the hulled seeds into a yellow paste and
then mixing them with the liquids and flavourings. The mixture is allowed
to stand for three days for the heat and flavourings to come together, then
it is bottled. An average of 57,000 metric tons of Dijon mustard is made each
year. Of all the varieties of mustard, Dijon is probably the most versatile.
It's perfect served with steaks, leg of lamb, chicken, boiled beef, cold meats,
sausages and fish. Try it as a base for vinaigrettes and use it for cooking;
its smooth texture and pungent flavour blend easily with soups, stews and
sauces.
English Mustard (Powder).
For centuries mustard has been a staple of the English kitchen. Thirteenth
century Tudor households were said to consume mustard in enormous quantities.
An earl of Northumberland would go through between 160 and 190 gallons of
mustard a year. English mustard powder as we know it today is credited to
a woman named Mrs Clements. The story goes that in 1720 she developed a powder
that produced a smooth-textured mustard rather than the grainy type which
was usual throughout England. What was so revolutionary about her mustard
was that she ground the seeds in a mill rather than crushing them with a mortar
and pestle, and she then put the mustard flour through a sieve to remove the
hulls.
Mrs Clements took her 'discovery' from town to town and eventually to London,
where it found favour with King George the First. Soon, mustard powder was
made on a commercial basis throughout the country. It was referred to a 'Durham
mustard' - a tribute to Mrs Clement's home town.
The popularity of English mustard was furthered in 1814 when a miller named
Jeremiah Coleman bought a flour and mustard mill in Norwich. His company was
so successful that, forty years later he bought a larger factory in Carrow,
a district of Norwich, exclusively for production of his pungent mustard powder.
The English have always preferred mustard in powder form. Made of a blend
of ground black and white mustard seeds, wheat flour and spices, English mustard
is terrifically hot. To make English mustard simply add cold water to the
powder, just enough to make a somewhat thick paste. It should stand for between
ten and thirty minutes to develop full flavour and heat. The full flavour
develops after ten minutes and diminishes after a few hours. You can also
experiment by adding milk, cider, flat beer or herbs. Whatever liquid you
use make sure it is cold as heat will kill the enzymes which activate the
pungency and flavour. English mustard is extremely versatile. There is no
better accompaniment to roast beef or left over cold meat. It also makes a
tangy glaze for baked ham and goes well with sausages and sharp cheeses.
Since mustard powder acts as an emulsifier and preservative, it is often added
to home-made mayonnaise, it not only adds a delicious flavour but prevents
curdling.
German-Style
Mustard.
The Germans, like the French and the British, adore mustard or, as they call
it, Senf. Made from a blend of ground mustard seeds, wine vinegar, salt sugar
and spices, there are tow major varieties of German mustard: Bavarian - a
sweet, dark mustard, and the more popular Dusseldorf - a spicy mustard similar
to Dijon. German mustard, it seems, was made to be eaten with sausages and
wurst. The Dusseldorf mustards, which range from mild to very sharp, stand
up to all sorts o spicy sausages and salamis. The sweet flavour of Bavarian
mustard complements the more delicate sausages like Weiswurst, which is made
from veal.
Grainy Mustard.
Grainy mustard, or what the French call moutarde a l'ancienne, tastes like
all mustards used to taste before the eighteenth-century innovation of removing
the seed's hull. Made from a mixture of ground and semi-ground seeds combined
with vinegar and spices, this mustard's greatest asset is its texture. Grainy
mustards have a taste similar to Dijon, although they are generally not as
sharp. Their texture ranges from somewhat creamy to thick and crunchy, and
lends itself to a wide variety of uses, one unusual suggestion being to spread
a tablespoonful or two on a thick slice of bread and grill. Serve with a bowl
of onion, vegetable or pea soup.
Hot Mustard.
To some people, the key characteristic of good mustard is just how hot it
is. Manufacturers have begun producing mustards labelled as 'Hot', 'Super
Hot' etc. These are usually Dijon-style mustards with the addition of cayenne
pepper, horseradish of chilli peppers. These range from mildly spicy to 'Oh-my-God-I
can't-stand-it' hot. Cooking with these mustards is not the best idea as they
tend to overwhelm other flavours.
Making your own mustard.
Making mustard is a surprisingly straightforward process of grinding and mixing
mustard seeds with a few other ingredients. The seeds themselves are not hot
until they are ground and moistened with some sort of cold liquid. The liquid
activates a mixture of enzymes called myrosin which is what gives the mustard
its pungency.
Freshly made mustard is searingly hot. It should be allowed to stand for 10-30
minutes to develop flavour and allow the heat to subsided slightly. The longer
it stands the mellower it becomes. The making of mustard invariably involves
secrets. Look at the labels on a dozen jars of Dijon mustard, they all list
the same ingredients (mustard seeds, vinegar, salt and spices) but they taste
very different. It is the manufacturers' special combination of seeds and
seasonings that gives each mustard its distinctive flavour.
All mustard comes from the same family, the cruciferae plant-so called because
it bears flowers with four petals arranged in the shape of a cross. The most
common is the white seed (brassica alba), which is actually a yellowish-tan
colour. This is the mildest and is used to make America-style mustard.
The black variety (brassica nigra) (actually a dark reddish-brown Colour)
has been known since the earliest times for its potency. They are used for
making hot mustards, most notably Dijon.
The brown variety (brassica juncea) is the hottest of them all, so hot that
it is said to repel insects while growing. This variety is not generally used
in prepared mustard but is frequently used in curries and ground into powder
form to make what is called Chinese mustard.
